Granite
The granite counter should be sealed immediately after it is installed. Resealing typically needs to be done every 6 months to a year, depending on the type of granite you chose. You will know it is time when water splashed on the surface no longer beads up.
Granite counters are fairly simple to care for, as long as you keep up with regular maintenance. To keep granite countertops clean, use a microfiber cloth to dust off countertop surfaces. Wipe down the granite countertops daily or as needed using a soft cloth with or without water. Once a week wipe down with a damp cloth and a mild detergent (like Dawn) or stone cleaner formulated with a neutral pH. Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners–they can scratch, pit, and etch the surface of the stone. Dust and dirt could also etch countertop surfaces if left for a very long time.
Spills have the potential to stain or etch away the sealer when they sit for too long, especially things like acidic foods or red wine. These stains become very difficult to remove on some types of granite. This risk can be eliminated by cleaning up a mess in a timely manner, and doing so will protect your countertops for years.
Be wary of what extreme changes in temperature can do to your countertops. Many stone countertops on the market are resistant to heat damage, but can still be affected by temperature. Use trivets and potholders to protect your countertops from hot surfaces.
If there are stains you cannot get out or the stone becomes damaged, contact us for help with repair.
Marble/Travertine
The marble counter should be sealed immediately after it is installed. Resealing typically needs to be done every 6 months to a year, depending on the type of marble you chose. You will know it is time when water splashed on the surface no longer beads up.
Marble is more porous than granite and it is important to care for your countertop properly.
Marble counters are fairly simple to care for, as long as you keep up with regular maintenance. To keep marble countertops clean, use a microfiber cloth to dust off countertop surfaces. Wipe down the countertops daily or as needed using a soft cloth with or without water. Once a week wipe down with a damp cloth and a mild detergent (like Dawn) or stone cleaner formulated with a neutral pH. Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners–they can scratch, pit, and etch the surface of the stone. Dust and dirt could also etch countertop surfaces if left for a very long time.
Spills have the potential to stain or etch away the sealer when they sit for too long, especially things like acidic foods, red wine, and vinegar. These stains become very difficult to remove on some types of granite. This risk can be eliminated by cleaning up a mess in a timely manner, and doing so will protect your countertops for years.
Be wary of what extreme changes in temperature can do to your countertops. Many stone countertops on the market are resistant to heat damage, but can still be affected by temperature. Use trivets and potholders to protect your countertops from hot surfaces.
If there are stains you cannot get out or the stone becomes damaged, contact us for help with repair.
Slate
The slate counter should be sealed immediately after it is installed. It is less porous than granite, but sealing is still recommended. Resealing typically needs to be done every year. You will know it is time when water splashed on the surface no longer beads up.
To keep slate countertops clean, use a microfiber cloth to dust off countertop surfaces. Wipe down the countertops daily or as needed using a soft cloth with or without water. Once a week wipe down with a damp cloth and a mild detergent (like Dawn) or stone cleaner formulated with a neutral pH. Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners–they can scratch, pit, and etch the surface of the stone. Dust and dirt could also etch countertop surfaces if left for a very long time.
Spills have the potential to stain or etch away the sealer when they sit for too long, especially things like acidic foods, red wine, and vinegar. These stains become very difficult to remove on some types of granite. This risk can be eliminated by cleaning up a mess in a timely manner, and doing so will protect your countertops for years.
Slate resists heat well, though it cannot hurt to use trivets and potholders to protect your countertop sealer from hot surfaces.
If there are stains you cannot get out or the stone becomes damaged, contact us for help with repair.
Silestone
Silestone® Quartz has built-in Microban protection from germs, and is easy to clean.
For Silestone Quartz with a polished finish, we recommend you use a mild household cleaner, such as 409®, Fantastik®, Lysol®, or Windex®. In case of stubborn spills or stains, soak the area for up to 10 minutes with one of the above cleaners and vigorously wipe away with a non scratch Scotch Brite® pad.
Silestone® Leather™ does show daily living more frequently and therefore requires more daily maintenance than other Silestone Quartz products. For your daily cleaning routine we recommend Countertop Magic™ follow instructions on bottle of cleaner.
It resists scratching, staining and scorching better than any natural stone or solid surface. Do avoid excessive force or pressure because that may mar or chip the surface. Don’t worry about spills from coffee, wine, lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, makeup, and many other common household products; just avoid harsh chemicals. And don’t worry about dropping a lit match onto your Silestone countertop; it won’t scorch. But, use trivets when placing any hot items to avoid thermal shock.
The following will harm Silestone Quartz: Drano®, Liquid Plumr®, oven cleaners and floor strippers. Do NOT use these or any other harsh chemicals on your Silestone surface.
Do NOT use crock pots or electric skillets while in direct contact with your Silestone surfaces. Always place them on a trivet or cutting board to protect your countertop. (Review your electric appliance manual as a reference.) Silestone is a stone product. As with any natural stone, certain exposure to heat may cause cracks due to thermal shock.
Ceramic/Porcelain Tile
It is important to sweep a tile floor regularly. Dirt can adhere to the surface of tile, particularly styles with a textured surface. Regular sweeping loosens and removes most of this dirt. So keep on sweeping. Feel free to use a vacuum cleaner to sweep, but be sure to use one without a beater bar to avoid dulling and scratching the tiles. However, the attachments that accompany vacuum cleaners are useful to collect dirt along edges or in between tiles.
Be sure to use walk-off mats to minimize and contain dirt being tracked in at entryways. And shake them often, homeowner. This reduces the amount of dirt being tracked across the tile floor, and reduces the wear to the finished surface.
Ceramic tile floors should be damp-mopped regularly using the manufacturer’s recommended grout and tile cleaners. For heavier soil, you can spot clean the floor with a sponge or clean cloth using the recommended cleaners. Textured tiles may require mild scrubbing with a soft brush or electric polisher/scrubber. After cleaning with a mild detergent, rinse thoroughly with clean, warm water to help remove any leftover residue. If needed wipe dry with a clean towel to remove any film. For soft water situations you may need to use an all-purpose cleaner. Apply to the floor, let stand for 3 – 5 minutes, lightly scrub with a sponge, rinse well and you’re home free – dirt free too.
For heavier cleaning tasks there are cleaning products available from your local grocery store that can be used to remove soap scum, hard water deposits, and mildew stains. You’ll want to consult the cleaning product’s instructions to make sure the product is compatible with your type of tile. After cleaning, rinse well and wipe dry for optimum shine.
Avoid using steel wool, scouring powders, or other abrasives that can scratch the finish of the tile. Don’t use bleach or ammonia based cleaners, as these products can discolor your grout if used too often. Also, do not clean glazed tile with oil-based cleaners.
Be fast on your feet. Try to clean up spills as quickly as possible so that the grout or tile doesn’t become stained.
While ceramic tile is considered very durable, it’s not indestructible and may crack or chip under extreme force. Take the proper precautions when moving heavy objects across your tile floor. Get a small army to help you move that grand piano. Cover furniture and table legs with protectors to guard your floor against damage.
Keep in mind that if a repair is necessary in the future, the replacement product may be a slightly different dye lot and/or texture than the initial installation. However, the good news is that, with time and usage, the repair will blend in with the original product.
Once the tile has been laid and grouted, it’s your responsibility to maintain areas exposed to water by caulking. Caulking will prevent expensive subsurface damage, as well as keep the tiled areas looking their best. Depending on your lifestyle, sealing new tile and grout may be a good option. After the installation process is complete and the grout has had ample time to cure, sealing the grout and tile can provide protection from dirt and spills by slowing down the staining process.
Today there are also innovative grout colorants you should be aware of. These products can transform the original color of grout and in some cases can act as a form of sealant. Please be aware that non-epoxy grout joints should be treated with a silicone sealer.
Regular care and maintenance will keep your ceramic tile looking new for years to come, and will keep your home a showcase for family and friends. For more maintenance information specific to your ceramic tile flooring, remember to consult the ceramic tile’s manufacturer recommendations.
Wood
Regular maintenance requires little more than sweeping with a soft broom or vacuuming with a soft floor attachment, especially for planks with a beveled edge. Do not wet-mop a wood floor, as standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood, and leave a discoloring residue. Wipe up spills immediately with a slightly damp towel. Do clean them periodically with a cleaning product made specially for wood floors. Do not use sheet vinyl or tile care products, or any other products with waxy or oily ingredients.
Use throw rugs inside and outside of exterior doorways to help prevent grit, dirt and other debris from being tracked onto the floors. Put soft plastic or fabric glides under furniture legs. This will prevent scratching. In areas like offices where you may have a chair that is rolled back and forth put some type of barrier like a clear plastic mat. This will prevent wearing down of the surface. Avoid walking on your floors with cleats, sports shoes, and stiletto heels as much as possible. These can have impacts of thousands of pounds per square inch which can dent any hardwood floor. For wood in the kitchen place an area rug in front of the kitchen sink.
Laminate
Regular maintenance requires little more than sweeping with a soft broom or vacuuming with a soft floor attachment. Do not wet-mop a laminate floor, as it is possible the water could seep through the joints and cause swelling and damage. Wipe up spills immediately with a slightly damp towel. Do clean them periodically with a cleaning product made specially for laminate floors. Do not use sheet vinyl or tile care products, or any other products with waxy or oily ingredients.
A tough coating is applied to all laminate floors and this provides long lasting protection against scratching and gouging. This is why laminate is a good product for people with children or pets. It is still possible to damage the floor, though it is much less likely than with a hardwood floor. However, one particular thing that will damage a laminate floor is a chair that is rolled back and forth, such as in an office. Put some type of barrier like a clear plastic mat and this will prevent wearing down of the surface. Use throw rugs inside and outside of exterior doorways to help prevent grit, dirt and other debris from being tracked onto the floors. Put soft plastic or fabric glides under furniture legs. For wood in the kitchen place an area rug in front of the kitchen sink.
Be sure to clean up liquid spills as soon as they occur otherwise they may seep into joints causing them to become weakened or damaged. Delamination can also occur in severe cases.
Minor damage, such as small gouge marks or scratches, can be repaired by using touch up kits that consist of silicon filler and colored wax sticks that are much like crayons. More serious damage may necessitate the need to replace several planks or tiles. The difficulty of doing so may differ from one brand to the next.
It is also worth bearing mind that manufacturers will often stipulate that a cleaning schedule is followed in order for their warranties to remain valid.
As can be seen, spending a small amount of time looking after your floor will ensure that it continues to look its best and that it provides you with decades of carefree use without the need for costly maintenance or repairs.
Vinyl
The new vinyl floors are extremely durable and long lasting, but like any floor covering they still need regular maintain to stay looking like new. Follow these general guideline for vinyl flooring. For more detailed information always refer to the manufacturer’s written floor care procedures.
For the first 24 hours after your new floor is installed protect all the seamed areas and don’t walk on the seam sealer.
Keep the room at 68*F or greater for at least a 2 days after installation to allow the adhesives to setup properly.
Do not roll heavy objects directly on to a newly installed vinyl floor for at least 5 days. This can cause the vinyl and adhesive to become compressed, once the adhesive sets up any compressed marks will become permanent. Always lay plywood or underlayment to disperse the weight of a heavy objects being moved across your vinyl floor.
Allow 5 days before thoroughly washing your floor. This will give time for the adhesive to cure.
Before placing chairs or furniture on your new vinyl floor check the condition of all casters or rollers before setting them on your floor. Replace any worn casters or rollers.
Vacuum regularly to remove grit and sand. Wash your floor occasionally with the manufacturer’s recommended floor cleaner.
Wipe up spills immediately. If needed clean with the manufacturer’s recommended cleaner. You can also clean with lukewarm water and clear ammonia.
If your floor becomes dull looking you may need to add the manufacturer’s recommended floor polish to restore the original gloss level. First, try cleaning with lukewarm water and clear ammonia to see if there is a film on your floor causing the dullness.
Never use abrasive cleaners, soaps, paste waxes, or solvents on your vinyl floor.
Place non-staining, walk-off mats at every outside entry to your room. This will help keep sand and grit from being tracked on to your floor.
If your floor gets a cut or gouge in it, cover the area immediately. A professional installer can repair the area, but if the cut is filled with dirt it may be difficult to repair correctly.
If you purchase an inexpensive PVC vinyl floor you should consider placing 2-3 coats of the recommended floor polish on the floor immediately. Any vinyl floor with a PVC wear layer will show scuffs, scratches, and other marks very easily, by adding the coats of floor polish you will make the floor easier to maintain.
If you have a seam open, cover it immediately, do not wash that area, and call a floor covering professional to come and repair the seam.
When moving heavy objects across your floor place plywood or underlayment sheets down first, then move the object over the plywood sheets.
Carpet
As a floor covering, carpeting is subject to quite a beating day in and day out; if special attention isn’t paid, many carpets have to be replaced prematurely. Without proper carpet care, a floor begins to look dirty and faded and the fibers start to lose their fullness. Regular and thorough carpet care is one of the best ways to prevent these issues, and will keep your flooring looking its best for as long as possible.
Vacuuming carpets frequently and thoroughly is probably the most important factor in carpet care. Dirt works its way down into the fibers of the carpet where it acts like sandpaper, grinding away at each tuft, leaving it limp and dull. Dirt also combines with oil residues carried through the air and eventually glues itself to the carpet. Regular vacuuming prevents both problems. Most experts agree that carpets should be thoroughly vacuumed about once a week, with heavy traffic areas being vacuumed more often.
Whenever spills occur on carpet, time is of the essence. The sooner it is cleaned up, the easier it will be to do so. Don’t be fooled by spills that are clear or are the same color as the carpet: these can change color over time and become visible stains. The first step in spot cleaning is to blot up the liquid using white paper towels or tissues. Do not add any liquids at this point, as they will only make the spot larger and help it sink deeper into the carpet. Make sure to take your time and absorb as much liquid as possible.
If a special cleaning solution is involved, test it on an inconspicuous part of the carpet first. Place a few drops of the cleaning solution on the stain and then place a white paper towel on top. Wait 10 to 15 seconds and check whether any of the carpet dyes have seeped through to your towel. If this happens, it’s best to call a professional.
Assuming nothing went wrong with your test keep in mind these additional stain-removing tips:
Use the least amount of solution possible.
Work from the outside of the stain toward the center to avoid spreading the stain.
Don’t rub the carpet too hard or you may damage fibers.
Make sure the carpet can dry quickly, using a fan if necessary.
If your efforts are unsuccessful, call a pro right away. Failure to act quickly will increase the odds of a permanent stain.
Keep in mind that not all stains can be removed. Bleached areas, whether caused by sunlight or liquid bleach, cannot really be addressed. Urine, if allowed to dry, also leaves a permanent stain. In theory, a professional can re-dye those sections, but don’t count on a perfect color match.
Stains from foods that have a lot of food coloring, such as Kool-Aid, mustard, or grape soda are often impossible to remove. The only chance you have of avoiding a permanent stain with these colored food items is to act very quickly when the spill occurs.
Many stains containing sugar attract dirt so effectively that if the attracted dirt is similar in color to the carpet, the underlying stain is completely hidden until cleaning. Then, with all the camouflaging dirt removed, the underlying stain becomes obvious and appears to be “new.”
Remember, even the best carpet care tips are only going to take you so far. Most homeowners simply don’t have the kind of equipment on hand to truly deep clean their carpets (and though this equipment is often available for rent, getting professional results takes more time and hassle than most homeowners will want to deal with). No matter how much you vacuum and spot clean, you may eventually need to have your carpets professionally cleaned.
